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 The history of Pylos/ Messinia

In the area of Pylos during Neolithic (6.000 - 3.000 bc) the level of the sea was 100 meters above the current sea level. In 3710 B.C. there was a rise of 17 meters, in 3360 BC there was one of 8 meters, 4 meters in 810 BC and 2 meters in 160 BC .

Messineans are Eolis from Thessalia and reached current Meessinia in 3300-3100 BC. They decided to settle there. That was the time when Polikaon, his wife Messini and his grandson Pilas reached the area too.

The west Messinia was flourishing: the golden palace of Pylos was built and many professions such as potter makers were on the rise. At the same time dwellers who had knowledge of astronomy, maths, geography, shipping and trade traveled to Crete, Cyprus, Egypt, Mesopotamia, Sicily and to the whole west Mediterranean.

The prosperous west Messinia had to face only one problem: their nearby enemies (Dories).

Pylas was the founder of Pylos which reached its peak during Nileas' era. Homer described Pylos as Nileas' town. The famous king Nestor was the son of Nileas and he reigned for three generations. Pausanias the famous historian reported that Pylos was located on the hill of Korifasio north of near the gulf of Voidokilia. The locals believe that Nestor's home and grave was located there and that Nestor used the small cave in Voidokilia to protect his cows. His son's grave was found a few metres away. Nestor's palace was found 6 kilometers northwest of Korifasio. The kingdom of Nestor was huge as the ruins and the description of Homer ascertain. Another important information is that this kingdom was so prosperous and wealthy that
was in a constant competition with the most powerful kingdoms in Greece that time: Mycenaes. The king of Mycenaes Agamemnon who was the leader of the national campaign sent one hundred ships to Troy whereas Nestor sent ninety.

In Oddysey, Homer describes Nestor as a wise and virtuous old man that all paid their respects to. Specifically, in Oddysey Tilemachos, the only child of Oddyseas, reached Pylos in order to ask Nestor whether he was aware of any information concerning his beloved missing father. Nestor could not provide this kind of information to Telemachus. Yet, he embraced the son of his dear companion offering him his warmest hospitality.

The Mycenaean palace of Pylos was completely destroyed by a destructive fire (in the end of the 13th century or at the beginning of 12th).

The wooden construction of the building accelerated this massive destruction. The inevitable result was the abandonment of the once magnificent palace. Yet, what was the reason of this fire? We assume that the revolutions that took place in many towns in Greece were the main cause of the destruction of various famous ancient palaces led to social revolutions

Nonetheless, the era of Pylos continued to develop itself. This is proven by various findings in Messinia such as the tombs and the fact that a new settlement is founded this time next to the coast, in Korifasio above the gulf of Voidokilia

Forceful and powerful earthquakes affected the lives of the people in Crete and Sicily who abandoned their homelands in search of a more hopeful future. After the terrible disasters and the heavy storms these people immigrated to the North. The ancestors of Nestor such as Melathros became kings of Athens. The renowned greek historians Irodotos and Ploutarxos informed us in detail about the names of these ancestors: Pisistratos, Alkmaion, Solon and Diogenis Laertios. At the same time the new places in which they settled were named after the places they came from:Kitherion, Eretria and Egaleo in Athens.
In their homelands the situation got worse: the number of inhabitants was in a constant decline and one of the reasons why this was happening was a serious epidemic smallpox

After the messenian wars (743-454 B.C.), Pylos became a desolate and empty city.

During the Peloponnesian wars (431 B.C. --- 404 B.C.) the general Demosthenes occupied the empty city. Their enemies Spartans tried to regain this quite significant military spot. So their army attempted a landing to the isle of Sfaktiria. Athenians asked for reinforcements and the result was a battle. The Spartan fleet faced the defeat. Yet, their troops remained to the isle as they were supplied by their ships during the night.

In 425 B.C. Athenians directed themselves to Sicily but an enormous tempest forced them to anchor to the harbor of Pylos. Their leader Demosthenes realised the significant position of this small town and gave the order for a wall to be built. This place was a very significant military base and it was occupied by Spartans. Yet, Demosthenes remained in Pylos with five ships, he sent two ships to Athens in order to ask for more ships while the rest of the ships continued their journey to Sicily. Spartans were quite surprised and annoyed by this Athenian act and sent their army to Pylos. Spartans lost the battle and Athenians landed in Sfaktiria. The 292 Spartans who survived defended themselves for 72 days but then they were compelled to surrender. These captives were transported to Athens and the negotiations for their release with the Sparta started. The captivation of Spartans was a shameful event for Sparta as it was the first captivation ever in their territory.

After the defeat of Spartans on Sfaktiria, a permanent guard was placed in Pylos by the Athenians. This guard was strengthened by the Messeaneans. As a result, the fortress of Demosthenes became a significant and powerful military base. Athenians were obliged to release the Spartan captives of Sfaktiria because of the peace of Nikias in 421 B.C. Nonetheless, they maintained their base in Pylos.

Spartans achieved to take the fortress under their control in 409 B.C. The settlement of Pylos was once more deserted.

After Epminondas' victories against Spartans, the messenean slaves were released and the town of Messini was grounded. Pylos was again a vivid town. Yet, the great potential of the military positions of Methoni, Koroni and especially Pylos was ignored as a result of the lack of a charismatic personality as well as of the long year occupation of Spartans.

Pylos is referred as a free town during Macedonian, Hellenistic and roman years. Specifically, Pylos was a member of Achaiki Simpolitia (219 B.C.) and during Hellenistic years Pylos became an independent town with its own currency.

After the fall of the Roman empire the traces of Pylos were lost as remains were not found.

In 589 B.C the place was occupied by Arabs. The name of the ancient castle of Pylos was Avarino-Navarino because of the advent of Arabs in the area

The Franks conquerors built a castle in place of the ancient citadel of Pylos (1287-1308) with a perimeter of 600 meters. This port was named after them Port de Jonc because of the existence of bulrushes on the sandy coast in the pass of Sikia

In 1385, that castle was under the control of the Spanish association of Navaraion. They named the castle "The castle of Navaraion". Nowadays it is called Palaiokastro or Palaio Navarino. In 1414 it was occupied by the Veneti and in 1500 by Turks .


The battle of Navarino.

The existence of monuments in the central square of Pylos and on the islets of Sfaktiria and Chelonaki proves the fact that this battle was of great significance. One of these magnificent monuments is on the square of Pylos in honor of the three admirals: Kordigton from England, Derigni from France and Hayden from Russia. These admirals discomfited the Egyptian fleet to this battle. There are other remarkable monuments as well: Philhellenist Santarozas' one ,who died fighting as a volunteer and the Russian monument on Sfaktiria next to a small church.

The events that caused this battle:

In July 1827 the three great powers then (England, France, Russia) signed a treaty according to which Turks were compelled to cease the war. Yet, Turkey disobeyed and reinforces were sent to the area of Navarino. The great powers with their fleet reached the bay.

Around midday of 20th October Egyptians killed the men who were sent by the admirals to negotiate. This act caused the big battle which lasted for four hours and left Egyptians with great casualties: 6.000 dead soldiers and 4.000 injured. Egyptians were forced to withdraw whereas Greeks celebrated this great victory. The bells were ringing and the inhabitants were running to the squares of their villages to find out that eventually the Egyptians were defeat. Their joy was ineffable. This battle was the beginning of the end for the Egyptian occupation as the beginning of a bright new and hopeful period for Greece after 400 years of slavery which reached its peak with the sign of the treaty of Konstantinoupolis in 1832. Greece is an automomous free state.


The golden Olympic champion Kostis Chiklitiras was from Pylos. His home which is a two floor stately home, fully renovated, is located on the harbour of Pylos. His life was short but full of success and glory. He started his athletic carreer by playing football in one of the greatest greek teams and later on he was second in high jump and broad jump to the Olympic games in London in 1908. The olympic games of Stockholm gave him a great joy and made the Greeks back home very proud of their new charismatic athlete. In these Olympic games he won the gold medal in broad jump. After that, he decided to take part to the Balkan wars. Unfortunately, in the tender age of 24 years old he died from meningitis. His bright career was over.


 

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